Characteristics of the last three vintages in Burgundy

THE 2021 VINTAGE

Until the very last day, 2021 was a trying year for winegrowers. From the frost in April (the effects of which were aggravated by an early start to vine growth), to the harvest in September, the brutal weather changes imposed their tempo: the winegrowers in Marsannay had to be constantly reactive and attentive. The only moments of respite occurred during flowering, which took place in good conditions for the formation of future fruits, and during ripening from mid-August, in sunny weather. The great successes are commensurate with the tremendous efforts made by the winegrowers, but the volume of production still suffered. Sacrifices had to be made for quality to be retained. In addition to the volume of losses due to frost, the grapes that were finally harvested required very meticulous double sorting, both in the vineyard and in the winery. The vagaries of the weather in July and early August contributed to the development of a few outbreaks of disease, fortunately circumscribed through the continued efforts of the winegrowers, and the return of dry weather during August. The general opinion is that 2021 is a classic vintage, fresh, elegant, and aromatic, with very good length in the mouth, well-balanced and subtle.

Climatology of the 2021 Vintage

After three consecutive years of early harvests starting in August, the 2021 vintage returned to a date more traditional for Burgundy. The harvest started around September 25. The versatile weather throughout the summer, marked by sudden changes in temperature and very localized rainfall, meant that winegrowers had to work hard until the end of the harvest.

Historic frosts, in extent and intensity

Winter 2021 was marked by alternating mildness and cold weather, but it was generally milder and wetter than normal. After marked cooling in mid-March, temperatures rose significantly and even became summery during Easter week (March 29-April 3), when the vegetative cycle of the vine was suddenly stimulated. In the space of a few days, certain plots, particularly in Chardonnay, reached the mid-budburst stage (at the very beginning of April). Then a very sudden change in the weather occurred on the night of April 5. The descent of a large mass of polar air caused severe frosts, especially on the nights of April 6 to 9. These frosts affected the entire vineyard, as the buds that had already emerged were still very fragile. The future volume of harvest was therefore impacted, but it was not possible to assess the losses precisely, as the whole vineyard was affected, but in different proportions. The vines were stricken by this violent episode, and took time to resume their normal cycle, especially since May was generally cooler and wetter than normal. Unsurprisingly, the secondary bud break bore very little fruit. Fortunately, temperatures returned to seasonal values from the first days of June. They even soared from June 8, peaking way above average.

Ideal, very rapid flowering

Flowering began then, and took place very quickly, thanks to the hot dry weather, offering ideal conditions for pollination and future fruit formation. The dates of the mid-flowering stage (50% flowers open) were close to those observed in 2019, with June 18 as the date for Pinot Noir in Côte de Nuits. Although the pace was rapid, fruiting was disparate in the vineyard, depending on the extent of frost damage. The continuing high temperatures then caused very rapid vegetation growth, allowing the 2021 vintage to make up for part of the delay that occurred between April and May.

 

THE 2020 VINTAGE

The 2020 vintage, according to many Burgundy professionals, is unique in many ways.

First of all, the conditions and context were relatively complicated for everyone. The year was also marked by historical precocity, from bud burst to harvest. Finally, for many winegrowers, the result is exceptional and yet remarkably classic!

At the time of lockdown, in mid-March, good weather settled in France and lasted until mid-September. The vine took advantage of this with a 3-week lead in budburst. This advance continued until the harvest, which started on August 25 in Marsannay.

Very early flowering gave hope of an abundant harvest. The high temperatures of summer, coupled with the lack of rainfall, cause a significant but uneven water deficit, depending on the sector. This deficit produced some concentration effects, even damaging the grapes most exposed to the sun. This vintage is more than ever a mirror of Burgundy's diversity. On the scale of the appellations, or even within the same appellation, maturity sometimes arrived unexpectedly, as was the case with flowering, related to the presence or absence of welcome showers. Choosing the harvest date therefore required nerves of steel and a fair amount of patience.

Vinification was easy because of the excellent health of the grapes. There was almost no disease, in the absence of untimely rainfall. The sorting tables were only used to remove the few sun-baked grapes.

The professionals very enthusiastic after the tasting sessions, as the unusual conditions of this vintage have led to new, rather unique qualities. There is a subtle richness, of course, but also a pleasant tension, especially for the red varieties. Some are already imagining the destiny of a great vintage for 2020, with excellent aging potential for both white and red wines.

 

White wines

The white wines are fruity and express beautiful aromatic complexity, with very good acidity. Despite the summer heat, they present very good balance, with classic freshness, in line with the expectations of a Burgundy vintage.

 

Red wines

The incredible colour of the red wines stands out this year! The colour is beautiful and sustained, marking a great richness in anthocyanins. The ideal conditions of sunshine and heat during maturation have led to concentrated wines, with character, but without heaviness. Like the white wines, they have kept their freshness and offer gourmet profiles, with black fruit notes such as blackberry, blueberry, and black cherry.

 

THE 2019 VINTAGE

 

The 2019 vintage was a unique and highly contrasted year. It brought its share of stress, with moments of tension for many winegrowers, yet the harvest was very calm, with a final result beyond the expectations of many professionals. The year was hot and dry, but the wines display a freshness to delight those who love Burgundy wines, together with a seductive richness. The only downside is that the volume of wine produced is below that of an average year.

A spring start to the year

The winter was quite mild, with above-average temperatures both in December and February/from December to February (+2.2°C in February compared to normal , with variable rainfall: December was very wet, but February was less so. The vegetative cycle therefore began quite early, with a slightly early budburst in certain sectors.

An autumnal spring

The mild temperatures in March (+ 1.1°C on average over the whole region compared to normal  allowed the vines to develop well. The most advanced plots reached the mid-budburst stage in the early days of April. But then the cold weather set in. Temperatures remained low and frosts occurred between April 12 and 15. The vegetative cycle only began again after mid-April, with the rise in temperature. The mid-budburst stage was reached after mid-April for the plots least in advance. During May, the vine developed well, as a wave of heat swept through Burgundy until the beginning of June. Powerful gusts of wind and a fall in temperature occurred all over France. These conditions partially hindered flowering, which was often delayed, with quite frequent phenomena such as failure of the fruit to set (coulure) and shot berries (millerandage).

A hot summer

The weather then became much hotter, with less rain. Most of the vines were in excellent health until the harvest, with occasional localized outbreaks of powdery mildew quickly brought under control. Occasional showers in August helped the vines to develop and launched ripening. This rainfall was very variable in quantity from one zone to another, leading to great heterogeneity in the progress of the vegetative cycle, not only from one plot to another, but even within the same plot. This heterogeneity remained until the harvest. Overall, the vines withstood the lack of water quite well, remaining vigorous until the end. Some plots were more severely affected at the end of the season, particularly the younger plants, and some grapes were damaged by the sun. As the weather remained fine at the end of August and the beginning of September, the grapes ripened on schedule. Some concentration was noted in September, but because of the (for once) positive presence of shot berries, there was sufficient acidity present until the end!

The grape harvest for still wines continued until mid-October. This unusually lengthy harvest was possible because of the excellent health of the grapes and the continuing favourable weather conditions. Taking into account the diversity of ripeness in each plot, the winegrowers timed the harvest to follow the rhythm set by the grapes. There were no set geographic rules: analysis of ripeness and berry-tasting prevailed over geography.

White wines

This frank vintage is characterized by great aromatic purity and remarkable balance: its liveliness blends well with the richness that is present on the palate.

Red wines

With a gentle ruby colour, the red wines have real elegance, with supple tannins and a pleasant freshness. The well-marked fruit notes bring richness to the wine. Thus 2019 is a vintage with potential, and a very beautiful harmony.